TTGBlog

Today I surfed my brains out at Topanga State Beach. All the locals were kickin’ it. All the beach bums were drunk off their asses. But best of all the waves were

PUMPING

. I can’t remember ever seeing topanga this good so I can pretty much truthfully say it is THE best I’ve ever seen/surfed. My morning session was so so. I wasn’t prepared for the size and power that came with this massive west swell. I even paddled out at charthouse for a few minutes but it wasn’t working. Then after eating some nasty fried calamari and fries from the reel in (when will i learn?) I paddled back out and forgot to attach my leash. My first wave I fell and saw my boarding bouncing around in the whitewash as it careened toward the rocks. NO dings though (none major anyway) . Check the swell model below and this is AFTER the peak I believe! Click on it for a better view.
Also check the pic and the video. I’m going to sleep now to prepare for another full day of surf tomorrow.

So we got a direct west swell. It jumped so high that the color scale at the top of the Swell Model had to be adjusted to show up to 18 feet or something. Yesterday was almost perfect topanga. As the video shows, the crowd was pretty heavy.